October 21 - Unexpected Encounters in Baku
After discussing with the locals in Baku, I canceled my plan to go to Ganja, and I found myself with an extra day in Baku. Waking up to a message from Tim, we realized we both intended to head to Sheki the next day. We'll have to synchronize our plans.
In the early afternoon, I explored the Heydar Aliyev Museum. The sleek, modern building was an architectural delight.
Later, Aral joined me, and together we strolled around the "Little Venice" area and the carpet museum. Went to the Maiden Tower, where I learned that tickets were priced at 4 manats for locals and 15 for tourists. Aral, being the resourceful local he is, secured me the local price—a true win!
Evening Escapades
Dinner with Aral consisted of a delightful yogurt soup and Russian salad. Our evening plans evolved into sending out invites to various individuals for a laid-back pub gathering. Bastien, a Frenchman who had opened a café in Vietnam, was the first to arrive, followed by Michał and later, a Turkish traveler and Tim.
Midway through the evening, Bastien was convinced he recognized a man sitting at a nearby table (where a group of four Azerbaijanis were gathered).
Curious, I approached the guy. Unlike his friends, he didn't speak English, hadn't traveled much, and didn't seem to recognize Bastien. False alarm.
However, our inquisitiveness sparked interest from the group, leading to an impromptu exchange. I found myself at their table, engaged in a lively conversation fueled by their shared bottle of vodka—a tradition inherited from the ex-USSR days, not exactly the most halal of customs. We talked about travels and meeting people. At 10:45 PM, one of them exclaimed: "You're going to Sheki tomorrow and don't know anyone there? Wait, I have a friend... Let me call him now to see if he can show you around tomorrow."
Unfortunately, his friend had prior commitments. A missed opportunity, but a testament to the warmth and generosity of the locals.
October 22 - An Evening in Sheki
Boarded the bus to Sheki alongside Tim, who proposed spending the night at a caravanserai. Intrigued by the mystery of it, I readily accepted without hesitation. He made the reservation via phone as we journeyed.
Arrived to Sheki bus station. Opting for a very modern taxi (a Lada), we each paid a mere 1 manat (0.50 euros) to get to the caravanserai.
We explored Sheki together, discovering the beautiful Şəki Xan Sarayı Palace. Photos inside the palace are not allowed, please don't report me!
Later, we stumbled upon a second palace that looked almost identical to the first. Seeking a stunning view, we made our way up a hill, encountering numerous photos of the president along the way.
Dinner with Tim turned amusing when I attempted to order a dish, only to be met with the server's incredulous response, "Um, Sir... that's very large. It's for 4 people." Ah, that explains the hefty 13 euros price tag! We ended up sharing several dishes, including "piti," a local specialty made of lamb, chickpeas, and fat. Our dinner totaled 6 euros each, including a generous glass of wine. On the way back, we indulged in some baklavas.
The night was spent at the caravanserai.
October 23 - Crossing the Seemingly Closed Border to Georgia
To the Border
Waking early to embark on crossing the supposedly closed border, I trekked through the city for about 30 minutes, passing by stray dogs and wandering cows along the way.
The plan to cross the border was straightforward: catch a marshrutka (some kind of minibus) to a village near the border (Balakan), then arrange for a taxi to cover the remaining distance.
Arriving near the marshrutka station, I engaged in a detailed discussion with taxi drivers to find my way. They inquired, "Taxi Baku? Balakan?" My response was, "Balakan. Marshrutka?" But they said "Marshrutka, niet!", suggesting it was not possible. Disregarding this, I walked a further 20 meters and found the marshrutka labeled for Balakan. I’ve learned to never trust a taxi driver.
The marshrutka departed 30 minutes later. It was far from comfortable, lacking ample space. The ride felt like a folkloric adventure, jerking in every direction at a thrilling 50 km/h speed. We slowed down when a pack of dogs crossed the road.
Upon reaching Balakan, the driver kindly offered to drop me at the border, sparing the need to seek a taxi. Accompanying me was a Sri Lankan woman residing in Australia.
The border appeared deserted, guarded by a stray dog, with just an open gate to the side.
After passport and bag checks, we entered Georgia. Taxi drivers awaited our arrival. Opting to head to the nearby village to catch a bus, we declined their offers to ferry us to Tbilisi. For a mere 5 laris each (1.75 euros), we covered the 5-minute journey.
For a minute, I considered sending a message to the Azerbaijani consulate to tell them they were wrong. I didn't though.
Sighnaghi & Tbilisi
Later, I planned to head to Sighnaghi by marshrutka. No direct route was available, so I had to change buses. Despite the language barrier, the locals were incredibly helpful, guiding me to the transfer spot. One woman even walked alongside me to show where I needed to switch.
Exploring Sighnaghi, I savored a delicious khachapuri skewer before heading back to Tbilisi.
Arriving in Tbilisi in the evening, I met an Iranian traveler and her father for dinner. We wandered around the city, enjoying its beauty under the night sky!
Next I started planning a trip to the mountains, in Kazbegi.