November 6
I arrived in Kutaisi in the late afternoon. I took a stroll through the market, but it was closing down. By 7:00 PM, I found my way back to the hostel.
The hostel is cozy, with just one dorm for eight people (plus two private rooms). I chatted with fellow travelers, and soon we made dinner plans together. Our group grew to seven. Among us was Adrien, a Frenchman who had just crossed Turkey on his bike, and Lana, an English chef based near Berlin.
We ordered beers, khinkalis, and some eggplant appetizers. The restaurant unexpectedly treated us to a round of chacha. An hour later, the owner brought out another round of chacha and left the bottle on the table.
At some point, we wanted to take a group selfie. The waiter then kindly offered to take the photo. But in the end, he preferred to be in the photo too, so he handed the camera to someone else and joined us.
As the night progressed, Georgian music filled the air, prompting us to dance. Then the restaurant staff offered a glass of brandy, followed by another... Things spiraled out of control. Even the waiter was drinking with us. In the end, we paid a mere 6 euros each for the whole affair.
Also, I learned a new drinking technique: https://photos.app.goo.gl/fjM78LttKNDmhZjj7. We can learn valuable life lessons at the most unexpected times... That said, I'm not sure if this qualifies as a life lesson.
November 7
Most of last night's crowd left today. Kutaisi isn't exactly a tourist place; people often pass through because of its low-cost airport. At the hostel, only Lana and I remained. She messaged Peter, a Hungarian guy she met the day before on the bus, and he joined us for the day.
Like my trip to Kazbegi, we hired a driver for the day. He took us to the Prometheus Caves, an 11-kilometer-long cave system, and then to the Gelati Monastery, dating back to 1106.
The Prometheus Caves sprawled through a vast underground network.
The Gelati Monastery stood as an ancient site with beautiful architecture.
At the monastery, a lady approached us speaking German. As a coincidence, the three of us understood German. The lady insisted on explaining things to us. After about 10 minutes, she unexpectedly asked for money, although we hadn't initially asked for any information...
One highlight of the dinner was elarji, a Mingrelian dish of cornmeal and Sulguni cheese.
November 8
Started the day with a chakchouka for breakfast and wandered around Kutaisi's center. Explored the market and indulged in some persimmons. Ripe persimmons were so good that Lana wrote a love letter to that fruit.
A local lady offered a taste of her cognac; we tried to leave a tip, but she refused, insisting we take another glass before leaving.
Afterward, we visited the cathedral atop a hill, taking in the view of the city.
Lana mentioned her habit of running about 15 kilometers. I hadn't run in a month, despite planning to. With no afternoon plans, we decided to run together for about ten kilometers. Exploring different neighborhoods while following the river was fantastic. Even passed by Kutaisi's botanical garden during our run. The lady at the entrance was surprised when we returned less than 10 minutes after buying tickets.
The most nerve-wracking moment? A stray dog barking and chasing us. The funniest? A wandering cow deciding to join in on the run.
Running around a city is delightful; I've decided to do it more often in the future.
In the evening, we met with others from the hostel: two Australians and a 51-year-old Swiss. He used to be a high school teacher but now prefers traveling over dealing with teenagers. I get it.
We dined together, sharing various appetizers and dishes, in a slightly more upscale restaurant. I especially enjoyed the dish with a tarragon sauce. I should look up a recipe later.
November 9
Sanatorium
It was my last day in Kutaisi, and Lana was also leaving. We hired the same driver as the day before to explore the former Russian sanatoriums in Tskaltubo. These centers were popular during the USSR, hosting over 100,000 people annually. Many buildings have been abruptly abandoned since then. We strolled through structures that belonged to a different era.
In the afternoon, I had to take a marshrutka to go to Zugdidi. Never heard of Zugdidi before? Neither did I before I received an email from a friend...