November 3
Hitchhiking Adventures
After a few days in Armenia, my aim was to return to Georgia. I'd already made the journey in one direction, so I knew where the bus stops were, making the return trip straightforward. Perhaps even too simple. I had to find something else.
Several people mentioned they often travel by hitchhiking, including Ivo, whom I chatted with for two days. They claimed it's easy around this area. I thought about it for a few moments but couldn't find a reason not to give it a shot myself.
I was advised that an early start would be best. So, I set my alarm and reached a strategic hitchhiking spot... a bit after noon.
After about 10 minutes, a 41-year-old man driving a Lada pulled over. I hopped in; he could take me 60 kilometers. He smoked and offered me a cigarette, which I declined. Passing by statues dedicated to the Armenian alphabet, he asked if I wanted to stop and take photos; it was kind of him. Later, he stopped in a small town, asking me to wait a few minutes. He returned with food for himself... and for me. He handed me two hot meat piroshkis and a small bottle of milk. It was super nice, though we almost had an accident as we were tailgating a truck, which suddenly decided to brake. The driver braked hard and swerved to the side because the brakes were not sufficient. When leaving, I gave him a little gift (some Nuremberg lebkuchen).
Next, I got a lift in a truck. The mountain view was lovely. Since the driver didn't speak English, he called a family member to serve as an interpreter.
Finally, I hopped into a jeep with a dented side. Still in Armenia, I was lucky to find a Russian man heading to Moscow. Conveniently, Tbilisi was on his route. So I stayed with him for several hours until reaching Tbilisi. He was friendly too; he offered me a coffee when I got in the vehicle. Later, he stopped on the side of the road to buy fruits and shared them with me, including a persimmon. I don't think I've tried persimmon before.
Summary of the three drivers: they all smoked, two offered me a cigarette, and none of them wore their seatbelt.
Evening
Once I arrived in Tbilisi around 8 PM, I headed straight to the same hostel (Namaste) where I had stayed before. As mentioned, it's a very pleasant place, resembling a house, except the rooms are dormitories. Shoes off at the entrance is the rule. There are two sofas in the living room, but the most popular spot is the terrace, offering a lovely view of the city, all for just 8 euros per night.
In the evening, I met up with Bryan (the American I met a week before) at a bar, attending an event with other international travelers.
November 4
After a rest at the hostel, I took another stroll around Tbilisi. I made my way to the Holy Trinity Cathedral. It's a massive cathedral built in 2004 that overlooks the city. You can see it from everywhere in town, especially at night when it's beautifully illuminated.
I also enjoyed the street art in Tbilisi.
November 5
I embarked on a short hike toward Turtle Lake. It offered a chance to explore different neighborhoods while on the way.
Later, I took a taxi to see the Chronicles of Georgia monument, an impressive structure featuring 16 columns, each 35 meters tall. The sculptures on these columns depict historical and religious events.
For dinner, I decided to try Chikhirtma at a local restaurant. It's a traditional soup thickened with egg, with a chicken piece bathing in the broth. If the description doesn't sound convincing, the taste didn't quite convince me either. I've heard it's used as a hangover cure. Perhaps I didn't have enough to drink to appreciate its effect.
November 6
I planned to leave Tbilisi today, but before that, I wanted to try the sulfur baths I'd heard about.
Sulfur Bath
There are public and private baths. I thought it would be more interesting to go to a public place and observe people. The entry fee was 3.50 euros, with separate sections for men and women.
Arriving at the changing room, I was asked if I wanted a "kisi," a vigorous scrubbing with a textured glove to remove dead skin. I declined but opted for tea.
English wasn't really spoken, but I was briefed on the routine: shower, bath, sauna, tea, and repeat as much as desired. First things first, everyone gets undressed. Stepped into the main room with ten showers, a bath, and some marble benches. The water in the bath was very hot, with a distinct smell of egg/sulfur, making me feel like I was becoming an omelet.
After the scorching bath and the equally hot sauna, I refreshed myself with tea that was also hot. I should have gone for something colder instead. Two men were playing dominoes continuously. One man tried conversing with me in Russian; I responded in English, to which he replied in German: "Alles gut?" He knew only 10 words but was keen on discussing politics. He insisted on getting my opinion: "Russia, good or not good? Ukraine, good or not good?"
I left Tbilisi and headed to Kutaisi by marshrutka. I arrived in Kutaisi at the end of the afternoon.