The adventure began on October 17th, as I had my flight to Baku, Azerbaijan.
Arrival
My Lufthansa ticket was a combined ticket, with first a train from Munich to Frankfurt, then a direct flight to Baku.
In theory, I would receive the train ticket when I do the online check in. However, the online check-in didn’t work and Lufthansa said I should do the check-in to the airport. So we had this absurd situation: I needed to get to the airport to do the check-in and get the train ticket; but I needed to get the train ticket to go to the airport.
On October 16th, I called Lufthansa, and they suggested that I could get the ticket at the train station. At the train station, they said that Lufthansa had to provide the ticket. After two hours of back-and-forth, I escalated to the Deutsche Bahn manager while simultaneously being on a call with Lufthansa client support, with the hope that they would solve the situation together. They couldn't.
At the end, the Lufthansa person said I could show the email confirmation to the train controller. I asked the DB manager if that would be fine, “I don’t know, I’m not a controller…”, they said, "but you can try".
On October 17th, I boarded the train, showed the email, and the controller barely checked it. I’m still not sure how it’s supposed to work.
Border Crossing
At the Munich border crossing, the passport control officer stared at me for about 30 seconds and seemed puzzled. She sought advice from her colleague, who took a quick look and confirmed, "Yes, it's him." He then remarked, "You've changed, sir... and in a positive way!"
While crossing the border, I also noticed that I forgot my national ID card at home. It's not a big deal, because I have my passport, but I have to point out that my passport is slightly damaged: the most important page is partially torn. I should still be fine for the trip... right? Let's see how it goes.
Anyway, I had a direct flight to Baku at 13:50. The flight lasted 5 hours, with a 2-hour time difference, and we landed about 30 minutes late... So I arrived a little after 9 PM.
Taxi
Upon exiting the airport, I inquired about taking a taxi. The taxi drivers didn't speak English, but I showed them the address, and they gestured for me to get in. I asked about the price, and they indicated it was based on the meter. After insisting, someone finally quoted a price: "35 manats." I firmly stated that I wouldn't pay more than 10, to which they responded with disbelief.
Luckily, I managed to get internet access on my phone and used the Bolt taxi app. There was a 50% promotion at the time, and I booked the ride for just 3.50 manats! It was so cheap that I added a 0.50 manat tip. In the end, I enjoyed a 28-minute taxi ride for a total of 1.93 euros.
Meeting Aral
I had made contact with Aral, a 27-year-old Azerbaijani through couchsurfing.com. I arrived at the hotel around 10:00 PM. After quickly dropping off my bags, Aral was waiting for me downstairs. We embarked on a night walk through the city for an hour or two, during which he showed me the city, the old town, and the waterfront. I sampled a shawarma (their local sandwich) and tried some ayran (a fermented milk-based drink).
During our walk, Aral shared an interesting taxi story. He mentioned that another tourist had paid 50 manats for a taxi ride. When Aral asked how that was possible, the tourist explained, "I checked Bolt, and it showed 6 manats. So, I approached the taxi driver and asked if he could take me for 6 manats. He told me that 6 manats was the per-kilometer rate and that it would cost me at least 70 manats in total if I used Bolt. He then offered to do the trip for 50 manats."
October 18 - A tour of Baku
I had been in touch with Ulkar, a 32-year-old Azerbaijani. She kindly offered to show me around the city. For several hours, we took a comprehensive tour of the city on foot. Along the way, we made a stop at a restaurant where I tried a dish called "plov aş qara," which is a pilaf with meat and dried fruits. We also shared "qutab," which are kind of like savory pancakes filled with cheese or vegetables. To wash it down, we had some "kompot," a sweet drink made from cooked fruits, with feijoas - it's... a fruit!
At the end of our delightful meal, Ulkar insisted on paying the bill, but I had to insist just as firmly to cover it. She then kindly invited me for some tea as a gesture of gratitude. We found a cozy tea house, where we enjoyed jasmine tea and milk baklavas. It was a wonderful way to cap off a day of exploring the city and experiencing local cuisine.
October 19 - Around Baku
I embarked on a full-day organized tour and met up with Tim, whom I had contacted a few days prior. Tim, a 41-year-old New Zealander based in London, recently left his job as a computer engineer and is embarking on a 6-month travel adventure. Uncertain about returning to work afterward, he's got enough savings for the journey. Sounds like me.
The day's itinerary was packed:
- Bibi-Heybat Mosque
- Qobustan, featuring ancient rock carvings dating back thousands of years.
- Mud Volcanoes
- Yanar Dag, a natural gas reserve that's been burning continuously since the 1950s.
- Romana Castle
- Ateshgah, a temple for fire worshippers.
The most amusing moment occurred when a 5-year-old girl from our group accidentally fell into one of the mud volcanoes.
Interestingly, the guide mentioned that "Azerbaijan is one of the most peaceful countries in the world." I made a mental note to ask Armenians their thoughts on this statement.
October 20
I explored Baku - rode the funicular, soaked in panoramic views, indulged in pastry tastings.
I swung by the Tourist Office to plan my trips. I inquired about reaching other cities like Ganja or Sheki. They mentioned buses to Ganja but claimed the train line to Sheki was canceled, and they suggested a taxi for the 350 km distance! I later shared this information with Aral, who chuckled, "There are buses from Baku to Sheki. They must be drunk."
I was later able to confirm that Aral was right... at least for the first sentence.
A Birthday Party
I saw a message on Couchsurfing from Michał, a Polish guy inviting people to celebrate his 31st birthday at a café. Eight RSVPs turned into a solo hangout. We spent the evening together, just the two of us. I brought German cakes (Lebkuchen) as a birthday gift.
Over coffee, Michał shared his travel tales, like hitchhiking from Poland to Iraq. He's now on the way to Iran. Very inspiring discussion. He has a nice website in Polish.
Border Affairs
Dug into how to get to Georgia. Most claim the land border's closed, suggesting flying. Some say foreigners wanting to exit Azerbaijan might pass.
Consulted a tour guide who staunchly claimed it's "absolutely impossible" to cross the land border. Seeking an official response, I messaged the Azerbaijan Consulate in France asking if I would be able to go to Georgia. Received a succinct reply:
Dear Sir,
No. The land border is currently closed.
Regards, Consulate Section of the Embassy of the Republic of Azerbaijan to the French Republic
This sounds like an official, definitive, unambiguous response, right? But it's not the answer I wanted and flying to Georgia sounds boring.
The matter isn't actually settled. Michał said he heard of people crossing into Georgia from Azerbaijan, echoed by a message Aral relayed from someone who did it a week ago. Seems worth a shot.